Pyin Oo Lwin

While still in the States, Jim planned a side trip in Myanmar, trying to get us off the trail most tourists go these days.  So, after our morning of sightseeing in Mandalay, we took off for a smaller village called Pyin Oo Lwin up in the Shan hills.  This town was “founded” during British rule in 1896 as a vacation spot for the British garrisoned in Mandalay.   Its higher elevation meant cooler air, which was welcomed in the summer.  Pyin Oo Lwin still has some of those colonial houses around, but today it is known more as a trading town for the fruits, vegetables and flowers grown there.   Even climbing up the hills in our taxi, we would meet motorbikes laden with fresh flowers, driven by people hoping to sell them down in Mandalay.

Pyin Oo Lwin is a smallish town, and not particularly pretty.  But, one small thing I loved.  When walking around on its streets, motorbike riders would often go by singing!  (I figure anyplace where people sing as they drive down the road has to be OK.)   It was also the only town we saw that still had small, very brightly painted “stagecoaches” pulled by horses --- now available primarily for the tourists who do come.  We took one only once, and the four of us filled it up. 

A few more memories that make me smile: 

1.     One night we set out looking for the town’s night market.  We never did find it, and got lost looking for it.  The streets aren’t parallel in the least, and there are few streetlights in any town in Myanmar.  So the roads were pitch black, and we encountered only an occasional biker or stray dog.  Finally, we stopped to ask directions at a small teashop.  I smiled when I looked in to see the owner and his three older male customers all clustered around the TV watching a Judy Dench movie dubbed into Burmese!

The view from the restaurant

2.    We found the loveliest restaurant set on one of the lakes.  We watched the sunset from there one night – and went back a second time for lunch.  During the dinner, Beth tried to order a shot of vodka.  They could only sell her a bottle of vodka, they said.  They didn’t have vodka by the drink.  But, on the drink menu were several drinks made with vodka, Beth pointed out.  Couldn’t they just sell her a glass with some vodka in it?  No, they didn’t think so.  Finally, I said, “We want one of these drinks you sell, but hold this and this” – pointing to the other ingredients listed.  OK, they could do that.  They brought Beth a shot of vodka.

 

Hearts made of flowers

3.     National Kandawgyi Gardens.  Started in 1924, this huge botanical garden was designed by the botanist who designed Kew Gardens in London.  It was filled of beautiful flowers and trees.  We spent a good part of the day there – walking through its grounds.  It was a beautiful day, with a light breeze, and sunshine in a blue sky. 

Baby takin

I did see a new kind of animal there – at least I had never heard of it before.  They said it was a kind of goat, but it looked closer to a buffalo.  Called a takin, it was large (700 pounds), with yellowish-gray oily hair and short, sturdy legs. I was walking alone when I got to them.  A caretaker took an interest in me and brought me far back into the compound to where the “babies” were.  Takin babies were not very little, but I did get to hand feed them some carrots!

The grounds were filled with blooming trees and plants - including tree-size poinsettias and a whole section of orchids.  

Taller than Jim

Great hornbills

Light purple stork with pink head

The favorite part of these gardens for all of us was its large walk-in aviary.  My favorite bird was TALL, and looked like a light purple stork with a pink head.  What was more remarkable than its size was its sound - it sounded just like an elephant when it was startled!  From very far away you could hear its trumpet call.  There were other great birds there as well, including a hornbill that would swoop near your head.  And Jim got into quite a conversation with the mynah bird!

And, one bird made of flowers