Incredible India

All along, we had incredible timing in India.   As examples, we:

• Arrived in Kolkata the day the vice-chancellor resigned – and were able to see the jubilant students the next day
• Went to a party where we met Ali and were able to attend her campus reading the next day, and
• Were in Delhi before India’s Republic Day, and could saw it all spruced up with soldiers practicing their parade marches, but encounter none of the crowds. 

One place we may or may not have had good timing was Jaipur.  We left Jaipur the day immediately prior to the Jaipur Literature Festival.  In its first year (2004), it was advertised as “a reading” and only fourteen people showed up -- including ten lost Japanese!  Now it is billed as the world’s largest free literature festival.  This year, they were expecting 75,000 people each day!  Authors coming included Neel Makherjee, the Booker short list author both Beth and I read while traveling in India.  And, the festival was supposed to have fireworks and dancing each night (two things I love!)  I was bummed I was going to miss it, but I doubt we would have found a bed to sleep in even if we could have stayed.

Entering Jaipur India

As it was, we enjoyed a quieter Jaipur.  Coming into town, you wonder see why Jaipur is sometimes called the “pink city,” as many of its buildings on the route we entered were painted a mustard yellow. We were told that when the Prince of Wales visited in 1864, locals used saffron to paint the walls in welcome.  Many have continued to use that color ever since.  (BTW: there are pink sandstone large gates to the city.) 

Known for its cloth and its gems, Jaipur is visited frequently.  We were told that – on average - a visitor enters Jaipur “every seven seconds.”   We encountered heavier traffic here – including camel carts, horse carts, bicycles, cars, trucks, motorcycles.   (The camels that we saw were all working camels – pulling carts for farmers.) 

Wind Palace, at night

The places I most enjoyed in Jaipur were:

    The Wind Palace (Hawa Mahal).   Built in 1799, this five-story building was for the wives and daughters of a ruler of the time.  Located right in the middle of town, its honeycombed window slits were fashioned so that the women could look out upon street life below, but no one could see in.  Ramesh, our driver/guide, explained that today traditional Hindu women in India still will hide themselves when men other than their husbands visit their home.   

We all climbed to the top and looked down on the city below.  I found it interesting that the climb up was via ramps.  They were not done for accessibility, but because the womens’ dresses were so heavy (laden with gems), that they couldn’t walk.   They had to be wheeled to the top on individual handcarts!

Jantar Mantar

    Jantar Mantar - the place of astronomical instruments.  Completed in 1738, this place was unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been.  It holds nineteen huge stone and brass instruments that tell time, predict eclipses, etc.  

We wandered through by ourselves, but I wish we had had a guide!  Some of the instruments had short explanations.  One giant sundial (called the Samrat Yantra) is accurate to 20 seconds!  Today, Jantar Mantar is a world heritage site.   Super interesting!

The Amber Palace.  The last excursion for the four of us together was to the Amber Palace.  My memory of the Amber Palace itself has started to blend into all the other beautiful places we saw in India.  I do remember that it had a wall ala the Great Wall of China that surrounded it and went up into the far hills.  Once again, it had the most intricate detailing. I especially liked the halls that shimmered with small mosaic pieces made of mirrors.  

Amber Palace-- interior view

Mirrored hallway

My two most vivid memories don’t concern the Palace itself.  I remember the snake charmer on the road leading up to the Palace - where I had to try my musical talent at charming the cobra!  

One snake charmer

Two snake charmers

And I remember our entrance.  Jim and I took the traditional way of entering, and paid about $15 to ride in on the back of an elephant!  Our elephant’s name was Moti (meaning pearl), she was 42 years old (expected to live to 100), and riding her was quite like being on an enormous rocking horse!

They say when an elephant puts its trunk like this,
it means "Hello."  Or, it might it be "Get off!"

Two elephants passing...

Don't give up your day job!

Jaipur is also known for its hand-printed cloth.  We went to one location where Jim got a chance to help.  Both Jim and Beth commissioned a piece of clothing – so ask to see Beth’s dress and Jim’s elephant print shirt when you see them!

It takes 4 or 5 separate hand inkings...

... to make a cloth print like this one.

Now our time traveling together was drawing to an end.  Jim and I were separating off - to fly to Johannesburg, South Africa.  Elizabeth and Leon were staying on in India for awhile longer. 

Throughout our journey together, Ramesh our driver has used the phrase “This is incredible India.”  And, indeed, it was.  I’ll close this blog with just a few more favorite images from our time in incredible India. I hope you’ve enjoyed traveling along with us!

Virtually every truck is uniquely decorated!

I love faces...

Goodbye beautiful,
incredible India!