The Taj Mahal & India's Famous Fog

On the morning of January 17^th, we woke to more of this area’s “famous fog.”  We had been warned that fog occurs during this time of year, but I was still impatient with it.   We waited in Delhi until 10 a.m. to give it a chance to break up, and then started toward Agra. 

I enjoyed the road trip a lot.  For one thing – the passing trucks were colorfully and uniquely painted with scenery, animals, or other bright themes.  And, their cabs were also decked out in fringes, bells or window decals.  Other vehicles sharing the road included this ladder-carrying motorcycle and this wagon -- with chandeliers for sale!   Dodging the cows on the road was also a tad tricky. 

Anyone want to buy a chandelier?

Ramesh told us that you need three things to drive in India – “a big horn, working brakes, and good luck.”   To help with the ‘good luck’ part, many Hindus – including our driver Ramesh – attach a decoration to the front bumper to ward off the “’evil eye” (i.e. accidents).  Ours must have worked.  We avoided all accidents, and arrived at the Taj midday.

Tagore described the Taj Mahal as “a teardrop on the cheek of eternity.”  I always thought he was referring to it as an everlasting testament of a husband’s love for his wife.  But, I learned there may be an alternate reason for that teardrop.  The son of the emperor who built it overthrew his dad and kept him imprisoned for many years at the Agra Red Fort.  From there he could only gaze upon the Taj Mahal (and never visit).

Nonetheless, I have always envisioned the Taj Mahal as a very romantic place.  I was excited to see it, and we did --- if only for a moment.   By mid afternoon when we arrived, a misty haze enveloped it.  But, we could see it, if faintly. Within thirty minutes, a thicker fog rolled back in, obscuring it completely.   The following two pictures were taken exactly two minutes apart!

Now you see it...

... now you don't.

People said we were fortunate to arrive when we did, as our first half hour there was the only time all day where the Taj was visible at all!

We all got to see it!

We walked around the grounds – and through the Taj, marveling at its intricate detailing and beauty.  

Detail inside the Taj

Inlaid stonework

They were enjoying the Taj, too!

In a way, the mist made it seem all that much more surreal and dreamlike than a harsh sunny day may have.  While not at all like I imagined, I got my “romantic” Taj Mahal after all.

Jim and Connie at the Taj Mahal
In 2015 ...our 35th year of marriage

Delhi Delights

Yes, Delhi is a modern city...
... but I live here, too.

I did not expect to like Delhi, but I did.  Delhi was cleaner and greener than I expected, with traffic that was calmer than I expected, and sites that I enjoyed more than I expected!

Got a problem with that?

Getting to Delhi was another matter.  Madhu dropped us at the airport a little early, as she had a doctor’s appointment that morning.  We walked in – only to discover that our flight was postponed.  Our flight kept being postponed most of the day.  The weather out our window looked great, but apparently Delhi was experiencing some of the fog for which it is famous.

I struck up one pleasant conversation while waiting.  I decided to go for a coffee at an airport shop.  While sitting there, a woman sat down and asked if I’d like to share the samosas she had just purchased.  I said, “yes” and we sat and chatted.  The main data point that I remember from our talk was that she told me that Delhi had been “founded” eight times – by different rulers, different times.  She said the city of Delhi is ancient – over 5000 years old – and has been the capital of several empires.  There have been Hindu kings, Muslim kings, Lodi emperors, Moghul emperors, and of course the British. 

After finally boarding our flight, we arrived at modern day Delhi.  Elizabeth had arranged our driver/ guide.  He greeted us at the gate, carrying a garland of orange carnations for each of us!  His name was Ramesh, and he instantly won us over, taking our bags and saying with a smile:  “I likes to help my clients to make memories.” 

Over the next day and a half, Ramesh took us to see some of the sights of Delhi:

The Jama Masjid Mosque.   This was our first stop the next morning.  Built by Shah Jahan betweem 1644 – 1658, its courtyard is big enough to hold 25,000 people!  Jim and Elizabeth climbed one of its two 20 meter minarets, while Leon and I wandered around the mosque area.  I especially loved the little ones coming to visit. 
 

Leon and I checked out the interiors

Young visitors

Jim and Beth checked out
the bird's eye view of Jama Masjid.

The Qutub Minar – This world heritage site contains the world’s tallest free-standing brick minaret.  It was impressive.  Its construction was started in 1193, by the first Muslim king of the Delhi area.  What I liked most of all about the minaret was the way it was constructed.  It has five distinct layers.  When you stand close to it, you can see and feel that it is round.  But, when you stand back, it looks as if it is ridged -- with sides that go in and out.  It presents quite the optical illusion. 

Gandhi!   I’ve always admired Gandhi – his nonviolent teachings and nationalist movement against British rule.  Tagore gave him the title of ‘Mahatma’, which translates to great soul.  Gandhi is widely considered “the father” of India.     

In Delhi, we toured two places dedicated to Gandhi.  

 

The first was Gandhi’s smriti where an eternal flame burns 24 hours/day in his memory.  The grounds are well tended, with flowers and grass that was being hand cut with machetes.   

Gandhi's eternal flame

Here we saw several platoons of soldiers, drilling their parade walks and stances.   We learned that Republic Day was approaching in a few days time – and this year, President Obama was coming!  

People in India love our President.  Without him, Republic Day is normally a huge event -like our Fourth of July.  With him coming, Delhi had been preparing for weeks! Security was heightened, including erecting big barriers around places like the India Gate.  

This is as close as we could get to the India Gate.

Buildings and streets were being spruced up.   We saw curbs being painted and the streets swept  – by hand.  These battalions we were seeing were rehearsing for the elaborate parades being planned.  Once again, we felt we had good timing.  We were able to see some parade marches - without all the crowds of Republic Day!

The second was Gandhi's final residence.  Here, you can see the very spartan room where he slept – and the very few worldly possessions that he owned when he died.  

He also died here.  You can trace his last steps by following a series of raised footsteps into the garden, until the footsteps stop.  Here, a person who was upset about the partition of India and Pakistan shot him to death. 

We also went by the President's residence - and ate at a cafe in Lodi park and gardens.

Executive building

A walk in the park!

Woman and boy in the park

Can you find the boy vendor?

Akshar bham temple.  The newest temple we visited, this Hindu temple was constructed in 2005.  It contains unbelievable carvings – for example of 869 peacocks!  At a cost of 2 billion rupees, this temple took two years to complete -- and, I’m amazed it could get done in that amount of time. It was beautiful!  So, on our last night in Delhi we went to its light and water show.   The story presented concerned Lord Swaminarayan - and many temptations given to some children by the “devil.”   But, the children prevailed over each temptation.  Many families were there that night, and I could only assume that the messages were well received.   Afterward, we walked in the moonlight, slowly circling the temple and surrounding pools.  We stopped many times, admiring the life-sized elephants that run around its base – 148 of them, each in a different stance or with unique detail. 

The last thing I’ll quickly mention in passing is that I experienced a touch of “Delhi belly.”  Just a tad, but it was the first discomfort I’d felt the whole trip!  I hoped it would pass quickly – as the next day we were leaving for the Taj Mahal!